In the late 1960s, young IAS officer Yogesh Chandra was posted to Pilibhit, a breathtaking Terai district on the Nepal border. It was a different India then, when days were spent solving people’s problems and nights echoed with the pukh, pukh of chital, the khor, khor of langurs, the meowr, meowr of peafowls and the deep, resonant roar of tigers in the dark.